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Adjusting For The Rough - Finesse Wedge

A golf course's greatest defense can be the length and type of rough surrounding the fairways & greens. On a day in which you don't have your "A" ball-striking, how you handle these obstacles can make all the difference when it comes time to sign your card.

Specifically, when handling finesse wedge shots, there are a few common mistakes to avoid and several technique adjustments to consider. When combined correctly, you should be able to hit your "landing spot" more often, control your distance, and make more par saves in the end.

Playlists: Finesse Wedge - Chipping and Pitching , Specialty Shots

Tags: Pitch, Chip, Set Up, Backswing, Release, Concept, Intermediate

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This content video is adjusting your fitness wedge for the rough.

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So one of the common questions is how do we adjust our basic technique or basic

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finesse wedge for the rough?

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And one thing I'm going to give you before we even get into any technique is more of a

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real concept, which is especially I'd say my 15 handicapped students, somewhere kind of in

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that zone.

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I see a lot of them when I put them in the rough.

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They take their practice swings where the club just brushes the grass, but does not hit

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all the way down to the ground.

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And simply getting them to focus on, I still want the club to hit the ground, not just

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the grass, feel how much more the rough grabs it, and then take a shot where they're basically

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getting the club to slide along the ground, can change the way that they approach shots

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out of the rough.

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That's not everything, so let's talk a little bit about how we can adjust the technique.

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In general, the grass conditions, you want to read the lie, so you want to evaluate how

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thick the rough is, how much the ball is sitting up versus down, because those all influence

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what you can do and what you can get away with.

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In general, the rough is going to slow down the clubhead, so I'm going to need a little

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bit more speed.

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To give myself a little bit more margin of error, I'm going to open the face, so I have

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more bounce so that I can slide the club along the ground easier.

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And so that when I add more speed, it doesn't cause the ball to go shooting off.

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The other thing is because I'm typically going to get less spin, I need to increase the

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loft, or it's helpful for me to increase the loft to help get the ball to stop in a reasonable

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amount of time.

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So I need more speed, more bounce, more loft.

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So in order to accommodate this, I'm going to try and get a little bit steeper while

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keeping the club face open.

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So I'm going to take my normal grip and then I'm going to open the face and take my

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grip.

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I'm not going to, sorry, take my grip and then turn my hands, I'm going to turn the

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club in my hands and then take my normal grip.

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That's how we set up with an open club face.

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Now because the club face is open, I might be aiming a little bit more left.

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You want to experiment with how much the ball shoots off to the right for your given style

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in technique.

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Some people, it shoots off a lot.

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Others, it doesn't shoot off to the right very much at all and they can aim pretty much

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square.

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Okay, so now we've got the club face and the bounce taking care of.

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Now how do we steepen things?

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There are three ways that I coach trying to steepen things out of the rough.

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One would be leaning a little bit more left.

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You could also rotate a little bit more open, but I think that one is a little bit

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risky because it's going to tend to take away some of the bounce.

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So I'm going to lean my shoulders just a little bit more left.

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That helps get the club leaning slightly forward with steepens things.

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Two, you can see what I did instinctively is I'm going to choke up a little bit more.

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By having a more narrow club, the circle is naturally coming down steeper to reach the

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same low point.

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Just by choking up a bit, it makes it so that the club is going to travel steeper.

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So lean left, choke up and then the third is somewhat optional depending on the grass

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and how much you have to really steepen things and how much extra speed you're going to

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need.

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That would be adding a bit more risk as your power source.

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So hinging it up a little bit quicker and then casting it on the normal period, but hinging

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it up just a little bit quicker.

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If I lean left, I open the face, I choke up and I hinge it up.

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Then the club will tend to come down into the rough, slide along the ground, pop the ball

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up and I'll learn to gauge about how much distance I need to allocate or how much the

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ball is going to roll a little bit differently.

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If the ball is sitting up perfectly, then I can probably get away with just focus

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on my normal wedge technique.

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But you can see how much that ball ran compared to the one where I opened the face and

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used more the rough technique.

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The other thing that I would say is when you're evaluating the lies, you can play around

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with ball position.

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So two different options would be if I play the ball back, that's going to help steepen

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things.

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So it's going to come out with a little less, I'll made one.

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So it's going to come out with a little less spin, especially if the grass is really thick,

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that can be quite helpful.

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The other option is to move the ball forward, which is going to start to get into more

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of a flopshot style technique.

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I still want to hit the ground.

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I may even open the face a little bit more to give myself more freedom.

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Because I'm hitting with more loft, I'm probably going to need a little bit more speed.

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So if I have it forward, I can basically hit the ground, took a lot more speed, popped

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the ball way up in the air, landed close to the pin, depending on how much you have to

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carry, that can be the safer method as well.

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So experimenting with ball forward, ball back, that's kind of a variable, but I would

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recommend more open club face in general, leaning a little bit more left, and choking

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up and using a little bit more risk as adjustments for making your stock, the nest wedge swing

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more friendly out of the rough.

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