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The drill is when you absolutely have to fade it. So I know that a number of golfers

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when working on the tour pattern of getting a little bit more shafrétation, a

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little bit more shallow, a little bit more side bend and body rotation. The path

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seems like it's almost always going to come from the inside out. So in this

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video I'm going to give you a couple strategies that you can use when you

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absolutely have to curve the ball. Now the easiest one that you can do is you take

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your normal pattern and let's say you have a little bit of an into out path.

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You just open the clubface slightly before you take your grip and then you keep

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everything the same. If you keep everything the same then the clubface will be

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slightly open to the path but now what you'll hit is more of a push fade. If I

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have the clubface slightly open and I come a little bit more from the or I do my

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normal swing from the inside. That's going to have a little bit of a push fade

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to it and the problem with the push fade is it's just going to launch a little

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higher than you might need. Because oftentimes when you have to fade it you

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want to get it to launch a little bit lower. So if you're going to go for that

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more of the slice the controlled slice we're going to have to get it to launch

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lower. We're going to have to move the path back to the left instead of having

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it in the out. Now the hopefully the power of the system is you have different

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tools you can use to move the path. The one that I think is the easiest is to

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just try and rotate your body a little bit harder while staying more slightly

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on top. So you're going to take away a little bit of that Jackson 5 and you're

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going to cover the ball a little bit more with your upper body. If you really need

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to launch it low left and I do recommend that you practice this you would want

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to actually keep your upper body back or your lower body back behind and get

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your upper body leaning forward. So basically getting very much out and across

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kind of like so. That will steep in the angle of the tack move the path left

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and if you prevent the club face from closing too much it's going to curve

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back to the right. So what we're going to do here is we're going to try and

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basically come over the top keep this shoulder a little bit high and rotate that

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upper body that will help give me more of a massive curve. If I just need a

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little curve I guess we'll do that one first. If I just need a little bit of a

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curve then all I have to do is turn my body a little bit more than my normal

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pattern to make the path go left and it'll give me more shaft lean which

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will delay the closing of the club face. So that had a little bit of a pull to it.

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I caught it just the touch fit heavy so it came up a little bit short but that

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had the good a little five yard fade that I would be trying to hit. I'll try to do

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it again without getting quite so steep which most faders do get a little little

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on the steep side. So we'll just try to add a little bit more body rotation. So

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there I got more of kind of the shallower contact that was more of a 10-20 or 10-15

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yard drop or a fade. Okay so now we'll go back to the other side of line. If I try

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to really exaggerate it so I can hit kind of the massive peeler I've got to do everything I

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can to get the path left and delay the closing of the club face. I'm not going to motorcycle

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quite as hard maybe just a you know it's a 20% of what I normally do and I'm going to

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really focus on that lower body kind of staying back and that upper body turning and covering

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and I may even add a little bit of the tumble or throwing the club outside in or steepening

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just a bit kind of like this so that I can get everything to work a little bit more to the left.

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I'm not going to open my stance dramatically. I'm just going to do this one more with the movement.

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So now that you can hopefully see had a much more left path and that was a good 20 yard

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fade with a mid-iron. That's pretty significant amount. If I did that with say a four iron or

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three would I would have pretty much sliced. So if you absolutely have to fade it those body

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movements will give it to you what I would then recommend in practice is trying to hit big draws

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where you have more of kind of an early extension pattern flip to hit all different heights and

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big amount of curves and then alternate to more of those over the top slices. In doing so you'll

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learn how each of the movements affects the ball flight. If you are a let's say 15 handy cap or above

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I would try to keep this wing the same and just adjust the grip. So if you normally hit a draw

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you'll just hit a push fade and you just have to play plenty of space for it to start right

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of your target and launch a little bit higher. So you may have to take a less club to keep it down.

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You may have to aim really far to the left. You've got to practice that in order to be able to

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pay it off. But if you're a single digit handicapper and you're trying to work on having the

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shot in your bag to kind of get you out of trouble I would highly recommend using more body rotation

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and just not quite as much access to it so less of that Jackson 5 as the primary means for

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how you're going to get the ball to curve. But then after doing the drill it can always be good

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to dial everything back in. Back into your stock little 5 yard draw.